It's hard to convey just how radically things have changed for us in the last week or so, in many ways probably the most extreme contrast we will experience on the whole trip. We crossed the border into Argentina about a week ago and were greeted by two signs - the first reminding us just how enormous this country is and how far we have to go, and the second reminding us of some recent (actually, not so recent ...) history. We descended slowly from the great heights of the altiplano (passing numerous varieties of cacti both very large and very small!) and having been at around 4,000m for so many weeks, the air down here at a mere 1,200m feels thick and warm. We´re in Salta, a lovely colonial city with a very European feel to it - lots of cafes, very good Italian coffee, and long siestas. On the food and drink front, things have improved considerably! The steaks are out of this world - huge, plate-sized portions that even we can´t finish and very drinkable red wine, which is going down well after nearly four months without. Our original plan was to stay just a few weeks in NW Argentina and then cross over into Chile but given the current, most enjoyable conditions, we have decided it might be an idea to extend our stay in this wonderful country, probably going as far south as La Rioja (for obvious reasons!). We´re not sure exactly where we will be for Christmas (possibly camping at a petrol station as we think a lot of hostels will close ...) but we will think of you back home as we tuck into paneton, turron and more wine. Have a great Christmas and happy 2008 to you all!
