Not a White Christmas

Another six-day week at the (handle) bar and another 550km, so we're a bit puffed out today and have been flopping about in the small Argentine town of Belen. It's long odds for a white Xmas here as it is a sunny 25°C and excellent beer-drinking weather (although it's over 40°C down on the plains, so we won't be going there). The route along Route 40 from Salta took in fine sandstone canyons and the scenic wine-growing Cafayate region (nice chilled Turrontes whites). Our addiction to steak continues in an effort to put back on some of the 5kg we have collectively lost - no need for a post-Xmas slimming regime here. We also experienced the strong local Zonda desert wind, both for and against us, which was good practice for windy Patagonia. Local Xmas preparations are muted (apart from lots of firework buying - could be noisy tonight) and a huge contrast to 'Shop until you drop' UK. From here we continue south to Mendoza (another wine-growing area...) after New Year. Best seasonal greetings, Clive & Liz.

'Feliz Navidad' from Argentina

It's hard to convey just how radically things have changed for us in the last week or so, in many ways probably the most extreme contrast we will experience on the whole trip. We crossed the border into Argentina about a week ago and were greeted by two signs - the first reminding us just how enormous this country is and how far we have to go, and the second reminding us of some recent (actually, not so recent ...) history. We descended slowly from the great heights of the altiplano (passing numerous varieties of cacti both very large and very small!) and having been at around 4,000m for so many weeks, the air down here at a mere 1,200m feels thick and warm. We´re in Salta, a lovely colonial city with a very European feel to it - lots of cafes, very good Italian coffee, and long siestas. On the food and drink front, things have improved considerably! The steaks are out of this world - huge, plate-sized portions that even we can´t finish and very drinkable red wine, which is going down well after nearly four months without. Our original plan was to stay just a few weeks in NW Argentina and then cross over into Chile but given the current, most enjoyable conditions, we have decided it might be an idea to extend our stay in this wonderful country, probably going as far south as La Rioja (for obvious reasons!). We´re not sure exactly where we will be for Christmas (possibly camping at a petrol station as we think a lot of hostels will close ...) but we will think of you back home as we tuck into paneton, turron and more wine. Have a great Christmas and happy 2008 to you all!

South-West Bolivia: Salt flats & flamingos

We went quickly from La Paz to Uyuni, itself a rather bleak railway town. However this was the access point for tours of the wilderness areas of SW Bolivia. It was too remote for cycling, so we hopped into a 4x4 jeep for a three-day tour. The whole area has wonderful sights including the Salar de Uyuni (the world´s biggest salt flat), brightly coloured lakes with towering volcanos and steaming thermal baths (which Liz - lost in steam - particularly appreciated at a chilly 7am). Many lakes unbelieveably have resident populations of flamingos, not what you quite expect at 4000m! Overall a remarkable place and quite unlike anywhere else we´ve seen. We are in Tupiza now and will cross into Argentina tomorrow. We are nearly at the half-way point in time and indeed the whole trip will change significantly now in three ways; we leave the developing Andean countries for the developed ones of Argentina and Chile, drop from the Andean plateau to lower altitudes and move from tropical to temperate regions. All pleasingly symmetric - a trip of two halves. Certainly the prospects of large steaks and fine wine in Argentina are an enticing thought. (NB: Blog settings have been changed so anyone can now comment.)

La Paz: the two-mile-high capital

Hello All. Not much (geographic) progress since last week as we have only cycled for two days. Whilst on the border at Copacabana we went out to one of the islands on Lake Titicaca for the day (very scenic). We also witnessed the bizarre daily ceremony of ´vehicle blessing´ in front of the cathedral in town; the priest can be seen sploshing the holy water around the decorated cars. Maybe we should have got the bikes done too? Then it was eastbound including a ferry-crossing by barge, which was a bit of a squeeze with a bus (but luckily we didn´t get the barge full of cows. Apologies for pic - too hard to rotate in this programme) and a squeeze through rush-hour traffic (Japanese co-cyclist Sekiji pictured). Now we´re relaxing in the Bolivian capital La Paz at a paltry 3600m and it´s a nice city for mellowing (= cakes & barbeques). Our hosts are Linda and Raul, residents who give shelter to weary cyclists in their lovely home. We´re still getting used to hot running water and comfy mattresses (all much appreciated). And after three months on the road the scores-on-the-doors are: 50 days cycled, 3008km (along), 36,700m (up). Next destinations: Oruro and Uyuni.